PREP WORK

Before you even THINK about the paint you're going to use, you need to power wash your surface. 
Not scrub with soapy water. 
Mopping won't work. 
You need to POWER WASH your patio. 
If you skip this step - you will be painting on top of dust and dirt.
It doesn't matter what paint you use or how many coats you put down, if there is any dirt between your surface and paint, it WILL lift. 

READ THE TIN - TWICE!

You can use the best paint in the world - and still have durability issues - if you don't follow the instructions on the tin.  

You want to be looking out for: 

Temperature 
Time between coats
Total CURING time 
For example, we used Dulux Weathershield for our projects and they recommend leaving 4 hours drying time between coats.
And to work in dry conditions above 10 degrees.  
So check the weather forecast before you start your project, and check what temperature the weather drops to at night.  
 

APPLICATION

Masonry paint is a thicker consistency than standard emulsion paint, so it is important to apply thin coats for the best results.
Thick layers will not cure as well and will be more likely to lift and peel.
Brush or roller??
We found that a brush works much better on rough textured concrete. But if your patio is smooth then you can get away with using a roller. 
Don't be tempted to try and speed things up.
Painting thin coats and using a brush will take longer, but the results will be worth it.
You get out what you put in 💪

DURABILITY

If you follow the above steps, you will get years out of your project.

Here are some project exampled of patios that have stood up to UK winters.

But understand that anything painted will eventually need a touch up.

Just like walls and woodwork, your patio will see some wear and tear over the years to come, and it will need some TLC from time to time. 

You can choose to use a sealant, although most masonry paints have a sealant built into the formula. We chose not to use one and our patio held up well.